On the contrary, an extravagant faux jacket detailed with suede pockets was worn with a humble pair of straight leg, light-blue-wash jeans, the latter of which was buckled towards the cuff. This was paired with gray cut-off jogging shorts, elevated with a varsity-like Martine Rose logo. Take the bright yellow bomber jacket, for example, that was covered in beer-bottle caps and Camden punk-rocker safety pins. While many of the elements were daring, nothing was too far off-kilter.

The attitude was comfort and familiarity: Martine Rose as you know and love it, only brought back to the designer’s hometown of London, for Londoners, by Londoners. Look deeper and you’ll find them, as there is a cultural reference in the hi-vis jacket (not worn with the hi-vis trousers, may we add), the floral cropped tank top, the use of acid green on loose shirts worn atop silky nighties, and chrome psychedelia swarming across elongated boyfriend shirts. For SS24, that was a big ‘ol London rave. It brought people together through the power of community and nuanced understandings of dressing for the occasion. More on that point, Rose’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was an ode to what makes London great. It takes a much-loved name to draw quite the crowd, and as we clambered into the community hall - with pints of Stella Artois and bags of Irish Tayto chips in hand - it all became clear that this was a family affair, celebrating a London darling.

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